Musée à Trois – Wednesday, 12th May 2010

This morning on my run through the Louvre and Tuileries I decided to explore the perfectly trimmed hedges which fan out from the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel. I discovered that they are actually hollow through the base with well worn tracks running through the length of them. I thought it a place where possibly the homeless take refuge at night – but then to my surprise I began to notice empty condom wrappers littering the grounds nearby. So my lovely run through the hedges had some of the innocence removed by this somewhat unexpected discovery! The sculptures were lovely though!

Being my last full day in Paris I decided to tick off my final three museums. My first visit was to La Conciergerie. It was built as a royal palace in the 14th century for the concierge of the Palais de la Cite, but later lost favour with the kings of France and became a prison and torture chamber. A concierge is someone who manages policing and prisons and this building was named the Conciergerie after the Concierge of the establishment. Queen Marie-Antoinette was among the 2700 alleged enemies of the revolution held in the dungeons here before being sent to the guillotine during the ‘Reign of Terror’ from 1793-94. There is a reconstruction of Marie-Antoinette’s cell and Marie-Antoinette’s Chapel was built in 1815 on the exact spot where her prison cell stood. It is here as well that you can see the 14th century Sall des Gens d’Armes (Cavalrymen’s Hall) which is a good example of the Rayonnant Gothic Style and is the largest surviving medieval hall in Europe.

Following La Conciergerie I visited Musée de l’Orangerie which is located in the south-western corner of the Jardin des Tuileries and along with one other building is all that remains of the once palatial Palais des Tuileries where Napoleon III lived.

The Nymphéas (water lilies) have been at the Tuileries l’Orangerie Museum since 1927. They were a gift from Claude Monet (1840 – 1926) to the French state and hang in the two oval rooms as requested by Monet. The eight works were created between 1914 and the time of his death and are a culmination of an entire life’s work. They were inspired by his water garden at his home in Giverny, where he spent 30 years painting its ever changing scenes.

Also at l’Orangerie I viewed works by Matisse, Renoir, Cezanne, Picasso, Soutine, Modigliani and Derain. Most of the collection had been assembled by the renowned Parisian art dealer Paul Guillaume (1891 – 1934). His widow Domenica Walter added to the collection before she sold it to the French State in the 1960s. The Walter-Guillaume Collection is claimed to be a prestigious group of paintings without equal in any other Parisian museum and has only been on display to the public since 1984.

To complete my museum trifecta I visited the Louvre. And to complete my Louvre trifecta I visited the final of the third wings being the Richelieu Wing. Wow – I feel so inspired by my visit to this particular wing. I loved the 5th century right through to the 19th century French Sculptures. I then went up a floor where to my delight I discovered the ‘Renaissance’. Here, room after room, hung large wonderful tapestries. They are so beautiful and contain so much detail. Then I made my way to the much anticipated Napoleon III apartments! There’s only one word to describe them – WOW! They are probably the most spectacular apartments I have seen out of all the Palaces and Chateaus I have visited. They are absolutely stunning and overflowing with opulence. If you ever visit the Louvre they are a definite must see – just magnificent!

I had the most wonderful time in the Richelieu Wing as I wandered through with a huge permanent smile. I love the cheekiness and playfulness the artists paint and sculpt into their work. I felt so much joy being there and by being surrounded by such magnificence. Each corner I turned filled my soul with such wonder and delight.

It was such a wonderful way to end what has been my most wonderful and incredible month in Paris!

Au revior my lovely Paris!

Playful French Sculptures 5th - 19th Century

She’s Gone Shoe Crazy & The Worlds Most Visited Cemetery! - Tuesday, 11th May 10

My attempt to visit Musée de L’Orangerie today was thwarted again! It’s closed on a Tuesday. So instead I made my way to Cyber cube to print out some vouchers. I then made my way to ‘La Bon Marche’. I was specifically looking for some cute little Anna Winship shoes I’d seen previously in another store, but not available in my size, but I still couldn’t find them. But I did find some Pedro Garcia shoes which I’m developing a bit of a passion for. So I bought them!!

Then I made my way to a smaller Galleries Lafayette on the left bank still with the hope that I could find the Anna Winship shoes – but alas it was not to be, but I did of course find a very cute pair to pink T-bar shoes which I also had to have! Eek!! I had to get out of there and get away from the shops – I was out of control!!

So I came home for a read and a rest. I realised today how exhausting jumping on and off trains is and making your way through the myriad of metro tunnels.

After a brief rest I ventured out again in the rain to take he metro to Belleville in the 20th Arrondissement. Here I met my guide Carly who was about to take me on my own personal tour of Cimetiére du Pére LaChaise, the larges of the three Parisian Cemeteries. I was the only one booked on the tour today – Great!

It was lightly raining – which seemed quite fitting for a tour of a cemetery. There are 300K people buried and 500K cremated remains there. Coincidently anyone can be buried there regardless of where you live or come from!!

Pére LaChaise was built in 1804 to solve an overflow problem in the city, however due to the seedy nature of the suburb it was built in, no one wanted to be buried there and after a year since opening – there were only eight people buried there. So in order to increase the popularity of the cemetery Playwrights Moliére and La Fontaine were relocated to Pére LaChaise which evidently did the job!

The cemetery is now also the resting place for composer Chopin, writers Balzac, Proust and Gertrude Stein, Painter Delacroix and the ‘Chanteuse’ singer Edith Piaf. The commonly visited graves include Oscar Wilde, whose tomb is covered in lipstick kisses and Jim Morrison, whose grave had to have a bodyguard posted there to stop people taking drugs and having sex on his grave!

In this cemetery there are also lots of memorials to Concentration Camp victims and War Dead. In addition, there is a story of 27 May 1871 where the last of the Communard Insurgents, cornered by government forces, fought a hopeless, all-night battle among the tombstones. In the morning, the 147 survivors were lined up against the ‘Mur des Fédérés’ (Wall of the Federalists), shot and buried where they fell in a mass grave. While I write this Asha is reading about La Concierge where in 1789 approximately 38 people were guillotined a day. It makes you realise what a horrific time it was to live in France hundreds of years ago and how fortunate we are to have the justice system that we have today. Back then you really didn’t have to do too much wrong to warrant torture or getting the chop!

It’s the evening and it’s only 6 deg outside following a 10 deg day which is evidently unusually cold for May in Paris. But regardless, that’s not going to stop me going out for a Nutella Crepe and a bottle of Champagne!

(the top photo is the grave of a 9 year old girl - very sad!)

Disneyland (or Not) - Monday, 10th May 2010

I decided today after I’d arrived at Disneyland that it wasn’t the place for solo, emotional, exhausted Jodie to be! And that I will happily return once I am with loving husband and two beautiful children!!

So for now I’m leaving it to the families. Rather than waiting the nine hours for my return bus ride back to Paris, I walked around for an hour, bought the t-shirt, then caught the train back to Paris (with a legit ticket this time!!)

On my return I bought stamps and posted my 55 post cards which is a huge effort even by my standards. I then went back to the apartment and started reading a new book and drank Champagne!

It’s Queue Crazy and Lovely Ladurée - Sunday, 9th May 2010

Ahhh, it’s a slow and relaxing day for me today after a divine nights sleep. After breakfast and a chat with Pete I left the apartment around noon. It’s a beautiful day outside and warm enough for me to wear a dress. I’ve decided to start my day with some lunch (or a pastry) at the Café at Musée Jacquemart-Andre. But when I arrive I discover that everyone else seems to have the same idea as me and there is the longest queue. Oh well, I’ll just head off to my next destination instead which is Parc Monceau. It’s such a pretty park with a lovely water feature. There are lots of people running. It must be some sort of race because there are so many of them and they all appear to be running in the same direction. The streets are quiet and most shops and cafés are closed. But on the roads it’s a different story. It’s gridlock out there!

In the park I make my way over to the small pond. A man and a woman are picnicking nearby. He lets out a huge burp. I couldn’t help but look up at him. He held up his hand in a sorry gesture and said ‘pardon’. The woman burst out with embarrassed laughter. I smiled to them and then quietly chuckled to myself because it was actually quite funny! Now near the pond, I watched some of the new ducklings swimming around and a turtle sunning itself. It’s so serene here.

I then took the train to Champs-Elysees for lunch at Ladurée instead! Thankfully I didn’t have to wait too long for a table. I had a butternut soup that was so amazingly creamy and flavoursome and a beautiful red wine. For dessert I had a rose flavoured macaroon with fresh berries. It was all so delicious and delightful and this place is heavenly.

I then jumped on the train to check out a club I’d love to go to which is under Pont Alexander III which also happens to be the most beautiful bridge in Paris. I then made my way to Rue Royale which is where the first Ladurée started in Paris. And of course bought a patisserie for dessert!

While I was walking along Rue Royale there was a massive Christian parade. They were carrying flags and a banner. There was a loudspeaker in a van in the middle of the procession. It was as if it were a moving church service. There were well dressed Parisians of all ages speaking prayers, singing hymns and chanting ‘France for Christians’. It was lovely to hear approximately 2000 people singing hymns out in the open. How great is Paris!

A quiet afternoon before heading down to the local café/bar for hot chocolate and red wine. It’s too crazy out in Paris today. It’s like everyone’s come out of the woodwork so to get into anything and everything you have to queue like crazy!

Vaux-Le-Vicomte

Nicolas Fouquet’s Grandeur and Misfortune – Saturday, 8th May 2010

If you’ve ever read Trysts of a French Courtesan by Kirsten Lobe you’d be familiar with the Chateau Vaux-Le-Vicomte. Besides being an absolutely hilarious read it also details in spectacular style this stunning Chateau which is where I am on the train to now….that is if I can exit the station when I arrive at Melun, because I’m on the train with no ticket!! Some how my Paris ‘Navigo’ weekly pass let me through all the gates as I transferred from the Metro lines to the RER lines and before I knew it I was on the train to Melun for my much anticipated visit to the Chateau 60 kilometres southeast of Paris. However unlike the metro in Paris where you don’t require a ticket to exit the station, we discovered yesterday in Versailles that with the RER you do require a ticket to exit the station. So I may encounter some challenges when I arrive at my destination, but my adventurous side isn’t too concerned because it makes it more of an adventure that way (and it also appeals to my rebellious side!!). Here’s hoping though that it’s not too painful!!

It’s another Paris Miracle! I was able to just walk right out of the station with no gate to pass through – Phew! I then waited about 15 – 20 minutes for a taxi which happened to be a relatively new Mercedes Benz. Ahhh. . . . this is the life!

Ten minutes later I arrived at the Chateau extremely excited to finally visit it. It’s magnificent but has a rather unfortunate story. It was designed and built as a precursor to Versailles by Le Brun, Le Vau and Le Notre between 1656 and 1661. Unfortunately, Vaux-Le-Vicomte’s beauty turned out to be the undoing of its owner, Louis XIV’s Minister of Finance Nicolas Fouquet. Louis, seething with jealousy that he had been upstaged at the Chateau’s official opening, had Fouquet thrown in prison, where he died in 1680.

The Chateau is everything I expected and more. And next time I’m in Paris and with someone special I will come back and do the Candlelight tour and dinner at the Chateau. It is such a romantic Chateau with lots of little surprises to discover. It is a definite must see.

As I walked along the gardens I could hear the bird song and one bird in particular sounded as if it were singing ‘cuckoo’. I could also hear peacocks cries coming from one of the many adjacent gardens.

The other attraction of this place is that it is a well kept secret so the numbers visiting were quite low therefore making it a relaxing and pleasurable visit. It’s also really cute that Prince, Princess and Musketeer costumes can be hired for the children to wear during their visit. Such a fun idea!

I arrived back in Paris at 6 pm to rain and my dancing date cancelling on me! So I’ve got no one to go out with – but the evening is not a complete loss – there’s always crepes to go out for – and champagne to be enjoyed!

The Grandest Palace of Them All and Medieval Foundations - Friday, 7th May 2010

I can’t believe it took until my third visit to France to finally visit Versailles which is where I’m spending today. It is so very large with many, many wonderful paintings and statutes. The intricate detail in most of the works is spectacular. During the morning we viewed the majority of the palace including the state apartments, chapel and the Dauphin’s Apartments. My favourite rooms were the Hall of Mirrors and the Queen’s Bedroom. They were both beautiful and magnificent. Coincidently the tickets you are given each have a picture of one of the rooms in the palace. Asha’s ticket had the Queen’s Bedroom and my ticket had the Hall of Mirrors! Amazing!!

After several hours, we ventured outdoors to find somewhere to have lunch and it’s still really cold! It must be about 10 degrees or lower. We are also looking for the toilets which of course you have to queue for. The first ones we found had a monster queue, so we went looking for some others. And it was a Paris Miracle!! We found some which had just opened for the day and we were the first two visitors so no queuing at all! We then walked around the corner to find yet another set of toilets with the longest queue. We just laughed! So funny!!

We had lunch at the Grand Café d’Orléans and despite the very slow service it was lovely. I enjoyed a steaming hot caramel chocolate and an Italian prawn fettuccini. Yum!!

Following lunch we made our way down to the Grand Trianon. Evidently Louis XIV had the town of Trianon levelled so he could extend his palace to look the way he wanted regardless of what stood in his way. However he did name the Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon as a dedication to the now extinct town. They were built in 1687 for Louis XIV and his family as a place of escape from the rigid etiquette of the court. They were lovely but not as exciting as I had expected. On the way back we walked through some of the gardens – in particular the Kings Garden and the Mirror Fountain. Sadly none of the fountains were operating today. But it still looked very beautiful. So after 7+ hours at Versailles it was time to head home for a brief rest before heading out to see the Sully Wing of the Louvre.

On my way to buy my ticket for entry into the Louvre from one of the ticket machines I was stopped by a man who felt compelled to comment on the red coat I was wearing and my smile. It was really sweet. And then he saw me using the machine and rushed over to stop me. Evidently he’s the manager for the Café’s at the Louvre and said that it would be his pleasure to take me in. I told him I was going to the Sully wing so he took me to the point where you show your ticket and then he left me be. Wow – how cool is that!! He said that he’d be at the Louvre Café if I wanted to say hello to him later.

In the Sully Wing I discovered the medieval remains of the Louvre and I learnt about the history of the Louvre, including the 12th century medieval building remains I’d just seen. It was amazing to see the beginnings of the Louvre and just how much it has changed over the centuries.

I then wandered around the section displaying French paintings from the 14th Century right through to the 19th Century. I discovered some amazing artists including Boilly and Lagrenee and Jean-Marc Nattier whose work is quickly becoming one of my favourite artists.

I’m always astounded by the intricate detail of the art I see here and how much realism is painted into the painting. They are such masterpieces. To me they also epitomise great passion, for without passion I doubt that such a masterpiece can be created. I just love the wonderfully spectacular artwork on offer for viewing over here.

After a couple of hours, I decided to meet Adam again. I like the opportunity to converse with French locals and this was a perfect opportunity. He shared a beer with me at his café/bar and we chatted for about an hour. I then bid him ‘bon soir’ and made my way home. On the way I bumped into Lyn and Paul who I’d met on the Monet Bike Ride a few days earlier and who are also from Canberra – what are the chances!! With a quick stop for an ice cream on the way home and at our local café/bar to say hello to Xavier it had a been a great day!

A little bit more Paris Love and the Unicorn! – Thursday, 6th May 2010

This morning Asha and I went to Galleries Lafayette to buy very cute shoes that we’d seen earlier in the week. Unfortunately they didn’t have any of the two shoes I liked in my size – Boo Hoo!! They were so cute, so chic! Fortunately for Asha they did have her size. I’m very excited for her for two reasons – they are her first French shoe purchase and they are just beautiful!!

As we walked to the Metro, one of the many beggars on the footpath had no arms from his shoulders. It was a horrific and upsetting sight so I gave him some money. I actually don’t even care what he spends it on. I couldn’t even imagine not having any arms or hands. I really felt for him.

From the train, I got off at my next stop and Asha and I went our separate ways. Asha to lunch with friends and me to go and buy my next little piece of Paris Love! I had waited to buy my second piece so that Asha could be there with me, but alas it did not work out that way. But the lovely Axelle was there and she is just delightful!

She checked my new piece to ensure that it was all okay, including the diamonds. She wrapped it beautifully and looked after me so well throughout the process. She even escorted me to the front door and agreed to take a quick photo of me out the front of the shop with my new purchase. Photographs are not permitted inside the store.

So now I have my next little piece of Paris Love which is a Tiffany & Co signature diamond key necklace! And it’s beautiful!!

I was intending to catch the train home, but with my spirits flying high and a Tiffany’s bag in my hand I decided to walk home with long way! On the way I walked past a boulangerie/Patisserie and popped in for a look. I walked out with a round sweet bread with sugar on top thing, a friend praline cake which had bring pink sweet crunchy bits on it and a praline and a citron macaroon! I’ve mostly been eating healthy, but with one week to go, it’s time to go a little crazy!!

The next thing I came across was a little street market. It is mandatory that a market with fresh produce be held at least twice a week in each arrondissement for the locals - and this is where they shop. I was admiring the size of the king prawns which must have been about 30 cm long and fit for a meal for one! I’ve not even seen them so large in Asia. Anyway – at that brief moment, I think I gave the local Parisians some Paris Love as my short skirt blew up and revealed my bottom!! I just had a giggle to myself and hoped that all the running I’ve been doing at least made the brief view worthwhile!! He he he he!

Once I made it home I needed a little rest and had a quick Skype chat with Pete. Then it was time to venture out again. This time to the Musée National du Moyen Age “thermes et hotel de Cluny” It was founded in 1843 and sprang from the collection compiled by Alexandre Du Sommerand (1779-1842) who was one of the first to take an interest in the medieval era. He moved into an apartment in the Hotel des abbes de Cluny in 1833. At his death his collection and the medieval building housing it was purchased by the State. It is Paris’ finest example of medieval civil architecture.

The most impressive display is the ‘La Dame a La Licorne’ or ‘The Lady with the Unicorn’ which is a series of late 25th Century tapestries from the southern Netherlands hung in a dimly lit circular room. Five of them are devoted to the senses while the sixth is ‘A mon seul Desir’ or ‘To my Sole Desire’. They are all very beautiful and magnificent and it is worth a visit to the museum just to see these tapestries!

Later on Asha and I took a stroll through the grounds of the Louvre and watched the sun setting over Paris and then enjoyed a drink and some dessert at our local café/bar just around the corner from our apartment. It was bliss!

A Bubbly Day with Monet - Wednesday, 5th May 2010

I’m totally pissy as I write this following a very boozy day.

I started the day with a metro trip to Gare St Lazare where I met up with my tough group leader, Seth. We then all boarded the train bound for Vernon. After a 45 minute trip we arrived. We walked the short distance to collect our bikes and then we were off.

Our first stop was a local market to collect our picnic supplies. But first – the toilet stop! We parked our bikes in the car park adjacent to the markets where there was also one of those public pay toilets – so for 0.20c about 15 of us took turns going by holding the door open, so as to not let it lock again, for the next person – way to rort the system!!

Then we were let loosen the markets. Despite the locals not speaking much English they were so lovely, friendly and helpful. I picked up a ‘traditional’ (which is an upmarket baguette), some creamy cheese, some herb roasted pork, an apple, a patisserie and of course a bottle of bubbly! – All set for a great picnic.

We then road a short distance with our supplies to a park by the river Seine next to the remnants of a 12th century bridge and coach/toll house. Here we sat in a big circle for our picnic and it was just lovely and lots of fun. Everyone on the tour group was great. They were from NZ, Canada, the USA and Australia with three others surprisingly, from Canberra!!

After our picnic, where I pretty much polished off an entire bottle of bubbly myself with minimal help, it was time to get back on our bikes and ride the short distance to the Baudy Hotel. It was quite interesting riding whilst a little bit merry – but there was lots of giggling!

Out the back of the Baudy Hotel is a small studio where Monet used to paint when the weather was inclement. We then walked a short distance to his home in Giverny. We entered the home via the gardens which he designed and built himself. One side was based on a Japanese influence where nature makes its own course and which was also the inspiration for his famous Water Lilies series. Then the other side is very neat, symmetrical and French where the gardens are controlled and manipulated to emphasise mans control over nature. There are beautiful rows of flowers and blossoming trees. The tulips and daffodils are out and it is like a little piece of Floriade.

We then entered Monet’s house. It is large enough, but not overly ostentatious. What I was most surprised about was the large number of Japanese prints throughout the house. They lined the walls of each room and were typical Japanese style paintings and watercolours. Evidently he had never visited Japan, but had hosted guests from Japan.

After the visit to his home we made a brief stop at his grave and that of his wives and children. Then sadly, it was time to go.

We rode back to Vernon to return our bikes then walked back to the train station. On the way to the station we stopped for some supplies for the train ride home. Like our tour guide Seth, I also indulged in an ice cream and a 1664 beer for the train ride! How great is France – you can even enjoy an alcoholic beverage on the train!! Greache!

At home of course, it was time for more bubbles!! Voila!

Holy Crepe!

Another morning run in the freezing cold wind! This time better prepared!! It’s not so bad though if you are in the sun and out of the wind.

This morning I went to the lovely Champs-Elysees. What wasn’t so lovely was seeing an older chap go to the toilet right then and there in the middle of the busy Champs-Elysees footpath beside a Metro entrance!! What the!

In the afternoon I ate my own weight in crepes including a nutella one, a dark chocolate one and a lemon and sugar one! So satisfying!!! They were great!

Later in the afternoon I visited Musée D’Orsay. It’s actually quite small in comparison to the Louvre. Inside I saw works by Paul Gauguin, Cézanne, Lucien Lévy-Dhurmer, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Edouard Manet, Emile Lévy, Vincent van Gogh and Glaude Monet. Photographs are not permitted to be taken in D’Orsay, however there are a couple of pieces of work that warrant a mention. There was the very well known van Gogh ‘Portrait de l’artiste’, 1889 and another piece by Manet called ‘le déjeuner sur l’herbe’, 1863. It depicts four people in a nature setting. A lady in the background wears a sheer white sleeveless dress and stands knee deep in the creek. In the foreground there are two men and a woman sitting on the ground with a picnic spread out in front of them. The men are dressed in suits (of the day) with ties. They have longish hair (by a man's standard) and bushy beards. The woman however sits there with them completely naked!!

A third piece I discovered is by Gustave Courbet. As you walk into the room of the gallery you are surrounded by Courbet paintings including sweet scenes of deers in the wood and men sitting around in groups. Then you walk into the next room adjacent and wham! There on the wall straight in front of you, you are confronted by a rather large life like depiction of a woman’s anatomy! I wasn’t bothered by it, but it was certainly unexpected! You see the view from the women’s knees perspective as she reclines on her back. You can see up to her breast with one being covered by some material draped over her body. She has no face and no identity and I’d wished that I’d written the name of the piece down now!! It seemed quite out of place because yeah sure there were loads of painting with breasts and naked women, but none quite so graphic and centred on only that part of the body! See there really isn’t anything that you can’t get in Paris!!

A little piece of Paris Love – Monday, 3rd May 2010

It’s really cold this morning. Last week we had temps of 23 – 27 degrees but this week we’re only expecting highs of 11 – 14 deg. Not happy Jan!!

I went for a run but it was so cold that I just did a few laps inside the protected Cour Carrée at the Louvre – Good plan!!

This morning Asha and I went to Galleries Lafayette so Asha could buy some shoes. Asha found some great shoes to buy and so did I (and a skirt) but sadly I will refrain as they are way too much – boo hoo!!

In the afternoon I did some gift shopping and I bought myself a Tiffany & Co Paloma Picasso Pink Watch. It’s so beautiful and it is so Paris Love!! How exciting – my first Tiffany’s treasure. But watch this space – there’s more to come!!